![]() ![]() ![]() As a visitor, if you are so inclined you can help uncover the cooking pit and extract the goodies waiting for you, hot, fragrant and delicious. The pib, an underground cooking pit that is typical here is where the magic happens and she uses branches of the pixoy tree to add the smoky flavor to the foods cooked among the hot stones of the pib. “Can we buy some of the tamales to take home?” She is happy to share her knowledge with anyone who asks and like a proper Mayan lady, wastes no time with useless banter. She still cooks for regular mortals like us and so we took in the full experience, from visiting her hair-free piglets to digging up chachak waj (tamales) cooked underground and savoring the exquisite flavor of her cochinita pibil and relleno negro. His visit prompted more visits from other chefs and one thing led to another and a Netflix crew showed up and filmed a segment, catapulting her into instant worldwide recognition. Speaking of food, the trip here was inspired by Rosalia Chay, a local chef who was “discovered” by Merida celebrity chef Roberto Solis of Nectar fame, who was in the area scouting for ingredients and meat in particular. There is also an attractive cultural center that, for the time being is shut down to avoid any COVID-related issues, where one can learn about the history of the area (think Caste War drama) as well as the culinary prowess of the local cooks. In the town there is a spectacular cenote surrounded by a true jungle of trees and vines and stone stairs heading down to the water, which was high at the time of my visit. Here are some quick shots of the Mayan site of Yaxunah from October 2020, day of my visit (text continues below): That’s how I found out about an interesting function of the highest structure at Yaxunah: it is used as a telephone “booth” as it has cell phone reception when there isn’t any down below, including in the town. “ Están subiendo para hacer una llamada”. Thinking they were up to some romantic hany panky I made a remark to that effect to one of the caretakers. They dismounted and began to climb the largest structure, a pyramid-like altar about 20 meters or more high. While there, I observed a couple arrive on a motorcycle. There is jungle everywhere and on a pandemic kind of visit, with few other humans around there are bird as well to be observed. The site is small, but interesting and includes a ball court as well as other platforms and altars, for the most part reconstructed. “Not Rise to Structures” is not on display here and you can explore at your own pace or hire someone local, if you prefer. There are no ridiculously translated-into-English signs like there are at Uxmal or Chichen. Villagers administer the site and sell a few locally made wares including honey on the grounds. There is a Mayan archeological site within walking or biking distance from the village, blessedly free of a gift shop, an INAH marker or a ticket booth. ![]()
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